European sunscreen filters are at the forefront of skin protection technology. These ingredients form the first line of defense against harmful radiation, helping to prevent sunburn, premature aging, and even skin cancer.
In this first part of our two-part series on European sunscreen ingredients, we’ll demystify sunscreen filters, exploring both traditional and innovative options. From well-established filters to cutting-edge molecules like Mexoryl 400 and TriAsorB, we’ll cover the full spectrum of sunlight protection available in European sunscreens.
Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast or simply looking to make more informed choices about your sun protection, this guide will help you navigate the world of European sunscreen filters with confidence.
Understanding Sunscreen Composition
Before we delve into specific sunscreen filters, let’s break down what goes into a typical sunscreen:
- Sunscreen Actives: These are the compounds responsible for protecting the skin from harmful radiation.
- Lipid Phase (Oil Phase): This includes various oils and fats that create a smooth, spreadable texture:
- Paraffin: A mineral oil that aids in application and moisturization
- Fatty Acids and Fatty Alcohols: Soften and smooth the skin
- Fatty Acid Esters: Provide a lightweight, non-greasy feel
- Silicone Oils: Give sunscreens a silky texture and help create a waterproof barrier
- Waxes: Add thickness and stability
- Aqueous Phase (Water Phase): Contains water and water-soluble ingredients that hydrate and protect the skin:
- Skin Moisturizers: Ingredients like glycerin that draw moisture into the skin
- Thickeners and Polymers: Give the sunscreen its consistency and help it stay on the skin
- Salts: Adjust pH or improve formulation stability
- Water-Soluble Actives: Provide additional benefits like soothing or protecting the skin
- Emulsifiers: Help mix the oil and water phases to form a stable lotion or cream:
- Oil-in-Water (o/w) Systems: Create products where oil droplets are dispersed in water, often leading to higher SPF
- Water-in-Oil (w/o) Systems: Disperse water droplets in oil, potentially making the sunscreen more water-resistant but with a lower SPF
- Polymers for Water Resistance: Help the sunscreen stay on your skin when you sweat or swim
- Stabilizers: Preserve the effectiveness and shelf life of the sunscreen:
- Preservatives: Protect against microbial contamination
- Complexing Agents: Maintain stability by binding with potentially degrading metal ions
- Antioxidants: Protect the formulation from breaking down due to oxygen or sunlight exposure
- Perfume: Added for scent
Active Sunscreen Ingredients: UV Filters
The key players in sun protection are UV filters. These come in two main types:
- Chemical (Organic) Filters: These absorb energy and convert it to less harmful forms, like surface heat.
- Mineral (Inorganic) Filters: These not only absorb and convert energy but also reflect and scatter UV rays away from the skin.
Approved European Sunscreen Filters
The European Union regulates sunscreen ingredients strictly. Filters allowed in the EU are listed in Annex VI to the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Any filter not mentioned there cannot be used in cosmetics sold in the EU market. New filters must be positively assessed by the European Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety and approved by the EU Commission to be added to Annex VI.
Most european sunscreens contain a blend of filters. The overall absorbance spectrum of a sunscreen is a combination of the spectra of the individual filters according to their amounts in the formulation.
Annex VI to the EU Cosmetics Regulation:
| ID | INCI name | Trade name / other name | Filter Type | Maximum concentration |
| 1 | Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate | Mexoryl SO | UVB | 6 % |
| 2 | Homosalate | – | UVB | 7,34 % |
| 3 | Benzophenone-3 | Oxybenzone | UVA + UVB | 6 % |
| 4 | Phenyl benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid | Ensulizole | UVB | 8 % |
| 5 | Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid | Ecamsule, Mexoryl SX | UVA | 10 % |
| 6 | Butyl Methoxy dibenzoyl methane | Avobenzone | UVA | 5 % |
| 7 | Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid | Mexoryl SL | UVA + UVB | 6 % |
| 8 | Octocrylene | – | UVB | 9 % |
| 9 | Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor | Mexoryl SW | UVB | 6 % |
| 10 | Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate | Octinoxate, UVINUL MC 80 | UVB | 10 % |
| 11 | PEG-25 PABA | – | UVB | 10 % |
| 12 | Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate | Amiloxate | UVB | 10 % |
| 13 | Ethylhexyl Triazone | Octyltriazone, UVINUL T 150 | UVB | 5 % |
| 14 | Drometrizole Trisiloxane | Mexoryl XL | UVA + UVB | 15 % |
| 15 | Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone | Iscotrizinol, Uvasorb HEB | UVB | 10 % |
| 16 | 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor | Enzacamene, Eusolex 6300, Parsol 5000 | UVB | 4 % |
| 17 | Ethylhexyl Salicylate | Octisalate | UVB | 5 % |
| 18 | Ethylhexyl Dimethyl Paba | Padimate O, Eusolex 6007 | UVB | 8 % |
| 19 | Benzophenone-4*; Benzophenone-5 | Sulisobenzone*, UVINUL MS 40* | UVA + UVB | 5 % |
| 20 | Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (nano) | Tinosorb M nano | UVA + UVB | 10 % |
| 21 | Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol | Tinosorb M | UVA + UVB | 10 % |
| 22 | Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate | Neo Heliopan AP, Bisdisulizole Disodium | UVA | 10 % |
| 23 | Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine | Tinosorb S, Bemotrizinol | UVA + UVB | 10 % |
| 24 | Polysilicone-15 | – | UVB | 10 % |
| 25 | Titanium Dioxide | – | UVA + UVB | 25 % |
| 26 | Titanium Dioxide (nano) | – | UVA + UVB | 25 % |
| 27 | Zinc Oxide | – | UVA + UVB | 25 % |
| 28 | Zinc Oxide (nano) | – | UVA + UVB | 25 % |
| 29 | Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | UVINUL A + | UVA | 10 % |
| 30 | Tris-Biphenyl Triazine / Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (nano) | Tinosorb A2B | UVA + UVB | 10 % |
| 31 | Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine | TriAsorB | UVA + UVB + visible light | 5 % |
| 32 | Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate | Mexoryl 400 | UVA | 3 % |
| 33 | Bis-(Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl Benzoyl) Piperazine | Piperazine, HAA299 | UVA + visible light | 10 % |
| 34 | Bis-(Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl Benzoyl) Piperazine (nano) | Piperazine, HAA299 | UVA + visible light | 10 % |
How Filter Protection Works
Following the “Clinical Guide to Sunscreens and Photoprotection”: Scientists measure a filter’s performance using “Extinction,” which tells us how much radiation energy a filter absorbs and scatters:
Extinction = Absorption + Scattering
The specific extinction (E1,1) is used to express filter efficacy in relation to its weight.
Characteristics of Common European Sunscreen Filters
The efficacy of some of the filters used in European sunscreens are shown in the graphs below (Fig. x). These graphs illustrate the specific extinction (E(1,1)) of various filters across different wavelengths, giving us insight into their protection capabilities.
A higher line on the graph indicates higher protection at that specific wavelength. However, it’s important to note that the actual protection in a sunscreen formula also depends on the concentration of the ingredient used. The graphs primarily show us the breadth of protection each filter offers across the UV spectrum.
ZnO (Zinc Oxide) shows a flat protection profile across all wavelengths. While this means it offers broad-spectrum protection, its lower overall absorption means higher concentrations are needed for effective protection. This can lead to thicker, less cosmetically elegant formulations that may leave a white cast on the skin.
Titanium Dioxide, another mineral filter, shows higher protection in the UVB range compared to ZnO but drops off in the UVA range, especially at longer wavelengths.
These graphs help formulators choose the right combination of filters to create sunscreens with balanced, broad-spectrum protection. Modern sunscreens often combine multiple filters to achieve high SPF and good UVA protection while maintaining a pleasant texture and appearance on the skin.
New Generation of European Sunscreen Filters
Mexoryl 400
Mexoryl 400 is an advanced sun filter developed by L’Oréal for use in sunscreens. La Roche-Posay, a skincare brand owned by L’Oréal, has incorporated this innovative filter into their UVmune 400 line of sunscreens. These products are designed to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays, with a particular focus on shielding the skin from the long UVA rays that Mexoryl 400 targets.
If you have a look again at the figures above, you can see that the previously mentioned european sunscreen filters lack sufficient absorption in the long UVA wavelengths (370–400 nm). According to Marionnet et al. (2021), L’Oréal developed the new UVA filter, Mexoryl 400, exhibiting a peak of absorption at a wavelenth of 385 nm to fill this gap (Figure X).
Marionnet et al. (2021) states that the addition of the Mexoryl 400 filter to sunscreens leads to improved UVA protection when compared to sunscreens without this filter:
A study showed that sunscreens with Mexoryl 400, which protects against the longest UVA rays (370-400 nm), are better at preventing dark spots and signs of aging compared to the same sunscreen without Mexoryl 400 (Flament et al., 2023).
L’Oréal has funded all the available research and studies including the studies mentioned in this chapter.
TriAsorB
Developed by Pierre Fabre Laboratories, TriAsorB provides protection against UVB, UVA (including long-wavelength UVA), and high-energy visible light (400-450 nm) Bacqueville et al., 2021, 2022).
Avène, owned by Pierre Fabre, has incorporated TriAsorB into their latest line of sun protection products.
Compared to Tinosorb S, TriAsorB is better at absorbing long-wavelength UVA and can also absorb or reflect high-energy visible light (Bacqueville et al., 2021, Bacqueville et al., 2022).
A 2023 study by Boyer et al. confirmed that TriAsorB-containing sunscreens are highly photostable and effectively absorb high-energy visible light. They significantly reduce immediate skin pigmentation from monochromatic high-energy visible light exposure. Tinted formulations were found to be even more effective in preventing visible light-induced pigmentation.
TriAsorB offers good cosmetic properties, making it a valuable alternative to mineral filters that often leave a white cast (Boyer et al., 2023).
Pierre Fabre Laboratories has funded all the available research and studies including the studies mentioned in this chapter.
Piperazine
Piperazine, or HAA299, is a UV filter that protects against long UVA rays. The European Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety approved Piperazine for use in cosmetic products in 2014, with its nanoparticle form cleared in 2021. This is the latest filter approved for the EU market, patented by BASF.
A BASF study compared two SPF 15 sunscreens with identical formulations except for the addition of piperazine (which absorbs light between 350 and 425 nm). The product containing piperazine showed better protection against pigmentation (Lawrence et al., 2021).
I was not able to find a sunscreen product that has this filter on its ingredient list.
Tinosorb A2B
Tinosorb A2B is a highly efficient particulate organic UV filter. Its broad spectrum protection, efficacy, and photostability make it an excellent choice for sun protection products (Hüglin, 2016).
Tinosorb A2B is developed by BASF. Riemann P20, a german sun care brand with danish heritage, known for its long-lasting protection, has incorporated Tinosorb A2B into their sunscreen formulations.
The maximum absorption occurs at 315 nm, with a secondary peak around 340 nm. The filter’s efficacy increases as particle size decreases.
Conclusion
European sunscreen filters represent the cutting edge of skin protection technology, offering advanced defense against a broad spectrum of harmful radiation. From traditional minerals like zinc oxide to innovative molecules such as Mexoryl 400, TriAsorB, and Tinosorb A2B, these filters provide comprehensive protection against UVB, UVA, and even high-energy visible light.
The strict regulation of sunscreen ingredients in the EU ensures both safety and efficacy, giving consumers confidence in their sun protection choices. As research continues to advance, new filters are emerging to address specific concerns, such as long UVA rays and visible light-induced skin damage.
Understanding these filters empowers you to make informed decisions about your sun protection. Remember, effective sun care isn’t just about choosing the right filters, but also about proper application and reapplication.
Continue Your Sunscreen Journey
Stay tuned for Part 2 of our series, where we’ll explore the role of antioxidants in European sunscreens and how they complement UV filters for even more comprehensive skin protection.
👉 Click here to read ‘Get to Know European Sunscreen Ingredients: Part 2 – Antioxidants’
References
Bacqueville D, Jacques-Jamin C, Dromigny H, Boyer F, Brunel Y, Ferret PJ, Redoulès D, Douki T, Bessou-Touya S, Duplan H. Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB), a new sunfilter protecting the skin against both UVB + UVA and blue light radiations. 2021.
Bacqueville D, Jacques-Jamin C, Lapalud P, Douki T, Roullet N, Sereno J, Redoulès D, Bessou-Touya S, Duplan H. Formulation of a new broad-spectrum UVB + UVA and blue light SPF50+ sunscreen containing Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB), an innovative sun filter with unique optical properties. 2022.
Boyer F, Delsol C, Ribet V, Lapalud P. Broad-spectrum sunscreens containing the TriAsorB™ filter: In vitro photoprotection and clinical evaluation of blue light-induced skin pigmentation. 2023.
Flament F, Mercurio DG, Muller B, Li J, Tricaud C, Bernerd F, Roudot A, Candau D, Passeron T. The impact of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) UVA1 filter on pigmentary and ageing signs: An outdoor prospective 8-week randomized, intra-individual comparative study in two populations of different genetic background. 2023.
Hüglin D. Advanced UV Absorbers for the Protection of Human Skin. 2016.
Lawrence KP, Sarkany RPE, Acker S, Herzog B, Young AR. A new visible light absorbing organic filter offers superior protection against pigmentation by wavelengths at the UVR-visible boundary region. 2021.
Marionnet C, de Dormael R, Marat X, Roudot A, Gizard J, Planel E, Tornier C, Golebiewski C, Bastien P, Candau D, Bernerd F. Sunscreens with the New MCE Filter Cover the Whole UV Spectrum: Improved UVA1 Photoprotection In Vitro and in a Randomized Controlled Trial. 2021.
SCCS. SCCS scientific opinion on HAA299 (nano). 2023.