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Sunscreen Fundamentals: Everything You Need To Know about European Rules

In today’s sun-conscious world, understanding sunscreen is more crucial than ever. This comprehensive guide delves deep into the world of European sunscreen rules, providing you with essential knowledge to make informed decisions about your sun protection. From the fascinating history of sunscreen to the intricacies of modern regulations, we’ll cover everything you need to know to stay safe under the sun.

By the end of this post, you’ll understand:

  1. The history and science behind sunscreen
  2. How European regulations ensure sunscreen effectiveness
  3. The differences between UVA and UVB protection
  4. How to interpret SPF ratings and UVA logos
  5. The importance of water resistance in sunscreens
  6. Best practices for sunscreen application and reapplication
  7. How to choose the right sunscreen for your needs

All skincare enthusiasts share the opinion of Fu & Lu in their book Skincare Decoded (2021): “If there is just one thing you should do, it’s sunscreen”.

Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a concerned parent, or simply someone who wants to protect their skin, this guide will equip you with the knowledge to navigate the world of sunscreens with confidence. Let’s dive in and unravel the complexities of European sunscreen rules together!

History of Sunscreen

Modern sunscreens did not emerge until the 1930s. Eugene Schüller and Franz Greiter created the first sunscreens. In 1935, Schüller, the founder of L’Oreal, created an oily sunscreen called ‘Ambre Solaire’. In 1946, Greiter, founded the company Piz Buin and create the sunscreen called ‘Glacier Cream’. This happened after he got sunburnt while climbing the alpine peak Piz Buin.

How does Sunscreen protect against UV rays?

There are two main categories of sunscreen:

  • Chemical or organic sunscreens
  • Mineral or inorganic sunscreens

In chemistry, the word ‘organic’ means that the molecules contain carbon compounds. In contrast, ‘inorganic’ means that the compounds do not contain carbon compounds. This is the terminology used in the classification of sunscreens.

Chemical sunscreen molecules absorb UV energy, and convert it to energy that is less harmful to us, like surface heat.

Similar to chemical sunscreens, mineral sunscreens work by absorbing and converting UV, but they also reflect and scatter UV rays away from the skin.

This phenomena doesn’t only happen in sunscreens. It is happening everywhere because of Physics and its Law of Conservation of Energy. It states: Energy can neither be created nor destroyed – only converted from one form of energy to another. 

Your Guide to Choosing European Sunscreen

When it comes to selecting a European sunscreen, ensuring it meets certain criteria is essential for effective sun protection. Here’s a breakdown of what to prioritize:

  • UVB Protection: Look for a minimum SPF of 30
  • UVA Protection: Keep an eye out for the UVA logo
  • Visible Light Protection
  • Water Resistance: Choose a sunscreen labeled as water resistant or very water resistant
Sunscreen packaging example with highlighted labels for UVA and UVB protection and water resistance.

To better understand what these terms mean and why they’re important, delve into this comprehensive guide below. Make informed decisions about your sun protection to safeguard your skin’s health and well-being.

Understanding European Sunscreen Rules: A Guide to Making Informed Choices

In 2006, the European Union implemented updated rules governing the sale and production of sunscreen products in the document called ‘Commission Recommendations on the Efficacy of Sunscreen Products‘ (2006/647/EC). The European Commission designed these regulations to ensure the safety and effectiveness of sunscreens made available to consumers. If you’re wondering what these regulations entail and how they might influence your sunscreen choices, you’ve come to the right place.

Let’s delve into the key rules that sunscreen manufacturers must adhere to in the EU, and how these guidelines could shape your decisions when selecting a european sunscreen product.

Categorisation Rules of European Sunscreen

Did you know that in the European Union sunscreen products fall under the category of cosmetic products? The Council Directive 76/768/EEC of 27 July 1976 considers sunscreens as cosmetics rather than pharmaceutical drugs. What does this mean for consumers?

Well, for starters, it means that in Europe sunscreen products aren’t subjected to the same lengthy review process as pharmaceutical drugs. Drugs must undergo rigorous testing and regulatory approval before hitting the shelves. Categorising sunscreen as a cosmetic product gives manufacturers more flexibility in choosing their active ingredients and formulations. It allows for greater innovation in european sunscreen development, as manufacturers have the freedom to experiment with different ingredients and formulations. Innovations improve sun protection and user experience.

Interestingly, the United States classifies sunscreen as a pharmaceutical drug, resulting in slower development and approval of new chemical sunscreens and UV filters.

Complete UV Defense

All European sunscreen products need to protect against both UVB and UVA radiation. You will not find a European sunscreen brand that only protects against one waveband of UV.

Setting the Record Straight: Honest Sunscreen Claims for Informed Consumers

There is no sunscreen product that is able to filter out all UV radiation. Therefore, it’s crucial that sunscreen manufacturers refrain from making claims or giving the impression that their products offer total protection.

According to european sunscreen rules, brands are not allowed to use terms such as ‘sunblock’, ‘total protection’, ‘SPF 100’ or ‘all day prevention’. Brands may mislead consumers with such terms into believing that they are completely shielded from the sun’s harmful rays.

By setting realistic expectations and understanding the limitations of sunscreen, consumers can make informed choices and take additional measures.

Beyond Sunscreen: Essential Sun Safety Tips You Need to Know

According to European rules, sunscreen products must advice on other precautions in addition to their use such as:

  • Limit Sun Exposure: Even with sunscreen, it’s wise to avoid prolonged exposure to the sun, especially during peak hours when UV radiation is strongest.
  • Protect Young Ones: Babies and young children have delicate skin that is particularly vulnerable to the sun’s harmful effects. To keep them safe, it’s crucial to keep them out of direct sunlight as much as possible.
  • Recognize Sun Overexposure: Overexposure to the sun is not just a minor inconvenience—it’s a serious health threat. If you want to know how Sunlight can affect your health, read my previous blog post Beyond Basics: Know The Direct Impacts Sunlight Has On Skin.
  • Accessorize for Protection: In addition to sunscreen, wearing protective accessories can provide an extra layer of defense against the sun’s rays. A wide-brimmed hat can shield your face and neck, while sunglasses with UV protection help safeguard your eyes from harmful UV radiation. Whenever possible, opt for lightweight, long-sleeved clothing to cover exposed skin and reduce sun exposure.
Me hiking on the border between Bosnia and Montenegro looking down on the heart shaped lake from 2600m altitude. I am wearing a hat which protects my neck and sunscreen.

European Sunscreen Rules Best Practices: Protecting Your Skin with Proper Usage

The International Agency for Research on Cancer of the World Health Organisation has emphasised the importance of the link between the correct application of sunscreen products and the effectiveness of the sun protection factor (SPF) claimed.

To ensure maximum effectiveness and safeguard your skin, it’s essential that, according to european sunscreen rules, sunscreen product highlights its usage guidelines. Here’s what you need to know:

Acknowledge the Risks of Under-Application

It’s crucial for sunscreen products to clearly state the risks associated with applying insufficient quantities. Using less than the recommended amount can significantly reduce the level of protection.

Follow Application Instructions

Sunscreen products should come with clear instructions for use, including guidance on the quantity required for optimal protection. The recommended amount typically aligns with the quantity used for testing, which is approximately 2 milligrams per square centimeter (2 mg/cm2) of skin. Apply half a teaspoon of product to your face and neck to achieve this coverage. To protect the whole body of an average-sized adult, apply a quantity of approximately six filled tea spoons. Following these instructions ensures that you’re applying enough sunscreen to achieve the SPF level specified. To find out how to apply the correct amount of sunscreen without carrying around a teaspoon, a guide will be released soon.

Apply Before Sun Exposure

To maximize sun protection, it’s essential to apply sunscreen before heading outdoors.

Reapply Frequently

Sunscreen isn’t a one-and-done solution—it requires regular reapplication to maintain effectiveness. Reapplication is necessary especially during prolonged sun exposure or activities that may cause sweating or water exposure. Sunscreen products should include instructions to reapply every two hours or more frequently as needed, particularly after swimming, sweating, or towel-drying.

Some brands claim longer lasting protection along the lines of ‘once a day application’. However, I recommend reading their instructions/small print to identify any caveats.

Simple and Meaningful Claims of Efficacy

European sunscreen rules state that brands should indicate the efficacy of sunscreen products on the label by reference to categories such as ‘low’, ‘medium’, ‘high’ and ‘very high’:

packaging of a european sunscreen highlighting the categories by which the sunscreen is grouped based on its SPF.

What You Need to Know about Effective UVB Protection

Ever wondered what that SPF number on your sunscreen bottle really means? Let’s break it down.

SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, is a vital measure of a sunscreen’s ability to shield your skin from UVB rays – the kind of ultraviolet radiation that causes sunburn and contributes to skin damage and skin cancer risk.

Cracking the SPF Code

The SPF quantifies the protection that a product is able to offer in terms of exposure time in relation to sunburn when compared to unprotected exposure. Therefore, if a particular sunscreen has SPF 30, this means in practice that a sun exposure 30 times greater is necessary to produce sunburn, compared to the situation in which you are not wearing any sun protection at all.

The amount of time spent in the sun is not the only parameter defining SPF ratings. SPF ratings are defined with the time and the amount of exposure combined.

In technical terms, SPF is a numerical ratio derived using the Minimal Erythema Dose (MED). The Minimal Erythema Dose is the smallest amount of energy that the skin requires to trigger erythema (skin reddening). The SPF is the ratio the MED of sunscreen-protected skin, applied at a density of 2 mg/cm2, to the MED of unprotected skin. This ratio gives you a clear indication of the effectiveness of your sunscreen in preventing sunburn and protecting your skin’s health.

Understanding SPF Ratings

Fun fact! The claim “SPF 100” is banned in the EU, for the misleading insinuation that it can block 100% of UVB light. Sunscreen labels can only go up to SPF 50+, and here is why:

Let’s look at the SPF as a percentage of UVB radiation that can be absorbed by sunscreen:

  • SPF 15 lets through 1/15th of UVB radiation (around 7%), which means it absorbs/scatters the rest of the 93% of UVB radiation.
  • SPF 30 lets through 1/30th of the radiation (around 3%), which means it absorbs/scatters the rest of 97% of UVB radiation.
  • SPF 5 lets through 1/50th of the radiation (around 2%), which means it absorbs/scatters the rest of 98% of UVB radiation.
  • SPFs above 50 do not substantially increase the protection from UVB radiation and SPF 100 stops 99% of UVB rays from reaching your skin.

So, the next time you reach for that SPF-packed sunscreen, remember, it’s not just a number – it’s your skin’s shield against harmful UVB rays, helping you enjoy the sun safely and responsibly.

Understanding UVA Defense

SPF only addresses the UVB portion of the UV rays. You also need proper protection from longer-wavelength UVA rays; if you want to know why, read my blog post Beyond Basics: Know The Direct Impacts Sunlight Has On Skin.

Researchers from the Agence Francaise de Sécurité Sanitaire des Produits de Santé reveal that certain skin damage can be prevented or reduced when the ratio of UVA protection, measured through the PPD test (refer to the section below on Understanding European Sunscreen Testing Standards), is at least one-third of the SPF factor determined through traditional testing methods.

An increased sun protection factor (i.e. mainly UVB protection) should include an increase in the UVA protection as well.

Colipa, also known as The European Cosmetics Association, recommends indicating compliance with the European Commission’s guidelines of the UVA protection being at least one-third of the SPF factor, by printing the ‘UVA-logo’ (Figure) directly on the product packaging.

packaging of a european sunscreen with a highlighted label for UVA protection.

Understanding European Sunscreen Rules for Testing

In Europe, sunscreen products undergo rigorous testing to ensure they provide adequate protection against both UVB and UVA radiation. Here’s a breakdown of the testing methods and standards used:

  • UVB Protection Testing: Laboratories test Sunscreens using the International Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Test Method (2006) to determine their effectiveness against UVB radiation. The minimum SPF required for sunscreen products is 6. While cosmetic products containing UV filters of SPF 2 or 4 are permitted, they should not be marketed as sunscreens.
  • UVA Protection Testing: Laboratories assess UVA protection with two methods: the Persistent-Pigment Darkening (PPD) method and the Critical Wavelength Test. Sunscreens should have a minimum UVA protection factor of one third of the SPF, with a critical wavelength of 370 nm. This ensures comprehensive protection against both short and long UVA wavelengths.
  • Consideration of Photo-degradation: Testing methods take into account the potential degradation of sunscreen components under sunlight exposure. This ensures that the product maintains its effectiveness throughout its intended use, providing reliable sun protection.

The “critical wavelength” is the specific light wavelength between 290 to 400 nanometers where 90% of the total light energy is absorbed. This parameter indicates the breadth of UVA protection provided by the sunscreen.

In considering testing methods, it’s essential to prioritize in vitro (lab testing) approaches that yield comparable results, given the ethical considerations associated with method that test living skin. While both serve as valuable reference points, opting for in vitro testing not only ensures scientific integrity but also addresses ethical sensitivities surrounding live animal experimentation.

Understanding European Sunscreen Rules for Water Resistance

To ensure sun protection products are more effective, brands and scientists are developing advancements in the formulations that better adhere to the skin even when we dip into water.

Determining water resistance involves a standardized procedure outlined in the Association Cosmetics Europe’s ‘Guidelines for Evaluating Sun Product Water Resistance’. This method requires the testing facility to measure a SPF following a water immersion procedure. A sunscreen is considered waterproof if its SPF value does not fall below 50% after the water immersion procedure.

According to these guidelines, water resistance is assessed in settings like a spa-pool, Jacuzzi, or bathtub with water circulation.

Here’s how the test works:

After allowing the product-treated skin to dry for 15 to 30 minutes, it is immersed in water according to the following schedule:

For products claiming to be water resistant:

  • 2 cycles of 20 minutes immersion in water with 15 minutes drying time (no towelling)

For products claiming to be very water resistant:

  • 4 cycles of 20 minutes immersion in water with 15 minutes drying time (no towelling)

By adhering to these standardized procedures, sunscreen manufacturers can precisely ascertain the water resistance of their products, enabling them to make corresponding claims on their labels. This ensures transparency and reliability, empowering consumers to choose sunscreens that meet their specific needs, including protection during water activities.

me swimming under a warm water waterfall wearing sunscreen.

European Sunscreen Rules for Visible and Infrared Light Protection

Guidelines addressing Infrared Light protection in sunscreens are insufficient. This enables manufacturers to make unregulated claims on their sunscreen products.

At present, there are also no rules or regulatory constraints surrounding the inclusion of indications of Visible Light or Blue Light photoprotection on product labels. It was demonstrated by the study of Schalka et al., that the Visible Light Protection Factor values do not correlate with SPF values. Moreover, although Schalka et al. did observe a trend for products with higher UVA protection factor values to provide greater protection in the visible light range, the correlation was weak and the authors did not advise relying on the UVA protection factor values of sunscreens as an indication of their level of photoprotection against Blue Light or High Energy Visible Light. (Boyer et al., 2023)

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